It was over 100 degrees in Siena today. The usual precautions of closing the shutters during the day against the hot sun, then opening them later in the evening to get a breeze, did nothing to keep the house cool. At 8 p.m. it still registered 101 degrees and the evening breeze deserted us when we needed it most.
When it gets this hot, Americans disappear into their air conditioned houses and cars, but Italians come out to live on the street, in their gardens, on their terraces, under their neighbors’ noses. All the windows are open to the warm night and the still air is filled with voices of the neighborhood chatting about the days’ events, silverware clinking on plates as the evening meal is shared al fresco. Normally private conversations are open to everyone. Nothing is concealed when it’s this hot. Clothes come off, people come out and the entire town becomes your living room.
The simplest of meals is served. Tomatoes tossed with fresh basil, olive oil and salt. Sliced salami and cheese. Cold tuna and white beans, maybe a slice of frittata from lunch. Glasses of chilled white wine. Nothing that requires turning on the stove or oven. It’s too hot for heat.
An ice cream is suggested and we walk to the crowded bar to see what might be left in the freezer case.