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Ecco La Cucina

Culinary Tours In Italy

Yodeling our way through Alto Adige

When I was in the Alto Adige (pronounced awd- ee- jay) region of Italy a few weeks ago, in what used to be the Sud Tirol of Austria, I found myself walking in alpine meadows, listening to the wind in the pines and the lovely music of cow bells clanging softly, feeling very much like Maria Von Trapp in landscape that was decidedly not Italian.  Nor was the food, the language or the way they dressed.

Typical costume for those working in a shop

but I'm pretty sure she's not going to work...

our waitress up on the alpine meadow! Not a costume.

The Sud Tirol was a part of Austria until 1919, when Italy annexed it after the Austrians lost WWI.  The people hoped to be re-annexed by Austria after WWII but they lost that one as well and the Allies left the region to Italy.  

The majority of the people there relate more to their Germanic roots with some lingering resentment over being forced to be Italian, and most of the Italians I met were up from the south on vacation, just like me.  Occasionally we found people who spoke no Italian at all, just English, German or the local dialect, Ladino.    It definitely has more of an Austrian feeling than an Italian one, even now.

We were in the area around the quaint town of Ortisei, just east of Bolzano and an hour north of Verona, known as the Siusi Alps.   The food is strongly influenced by Austria, almost every menu boasted schnitzel, wurst and knudel, or dumplings, and the bakeries had seedy German bread and soft pretzels.

knudels, dumplings flavored with spinach and tomato

pretzel bread

They raise a lot of dairy cows in the Alps, summering them on the high meadows and wintering them down below in the foothills.   The cheeses from this area are all cows’ milk and very swiss-like and the people will happily melt it on bread for you for a cheese toast right out of “Heidi”!

grilled cheese

Walking through the alpine meadows, you can stop for lunch at a little baita, or mountain hut, where they serve a hearty beef stew with dumplings or their own freshly made cheese and butter, spread on dense, salted bread and sprinkled with local edible mountain flowers.

Franz the cheesemaker

cheese from Franz and the above cows sprinkled with mountain flowers

Two pounds of butter that I carried down the mountain!

The libations were fantastic too!  For a refreshing drink on a hot afternoon, especially just coming off a hike in the mountains, they mix elderflower syrup with cold sparkling water, and later on for a cocktail they just add some prosecco to that with a sprig of mint.  The wines from the region are fresh and crisp, and they have a strong tradition of making grappa and eau di vie, many of them flavored with pine or pine cones.

elderflower syrup and water

prosecco, elderflower syrup and mint

cirmolo, an eau di vie flavored with pine cones

The next trip you plan to Italy, keep in mind this beautiful mountain region north of Venice and have a grappa and some melted cheese for me!

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: alto adige, grappa, ortisei, sud tirol, suisi alps

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Gina & MaryGina and Mary offer culinary adventures for those that want to get off the touristy track and live like a local. We love exploring the wonderful open air markets, the extensive vineyards and cantinas, small ancient hill-top villages, all the while enjoying the local food and wine. We help you explore all aspects of the Italian table during our culinary tours and give you an insider’s view of each region we visit. Living and traveling extensively in Italy has made us experts on the foods and wines of our heritage land.

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Ecco La Cucina - Culinary Tours in Italy

Ecco La Cucina - Culinary Tours in Italy

Gina and Mary lead small group food and wine tours in Italy - together we are Ecco La Cucina - "here's the kitchen" in Italian. During our culinary tours we explore all aspects of the Italian table. Join us in Tuscany, Piedmont, Puglia!

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1 day ago

#barbaresco #piedmontwine #attheitaliantable #culinarytours #SmallGroupTours ... See MoreSee Less

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So gorgeous here!

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It’s strawberry season in Provence! ... See MoreSee Less

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Cin Cos

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2 weeks ago

A visit to the Southern Rhone wine region of Chateaunuef du Pape France’s first AOP appellation. Loving our inaugural tours in #Provence #chateauneufdupape #winetours #smallgrouptours @attheitaliantable #eccolacucina ... See MoreSee Less

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Cin Cos

One of the best vacations ever! Beautiful country, wonderful food and wine, and the best friends! Thank you, Mary and Gina!

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Mary Stipo Potter

Email: mary@eccolacucina.com

Phone:  (+1) 972-342-8308 (CST - Dallas)

Ecco La Cucina, Localita' Brenna, Siena Province, Tuscany

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